Lessons from Uzumati

“Any fool can destroy trees, they cannot run away.” – John Muir.

As we write this, the Amazon Rainforest is burning at unprecedented rates, a victim of insatiable appetites for burgers and brisket. “Developed” nations cry out in indignation for Brazil to halt the genus-cide, but the truth is that most of these nations have already allowed the reckless plunder of their own natural habitats in their quest for economic gain and social betterment.

The story of Yosemite (the phonetic pronunciation of its original name, Uzumati) and many national parks follows a common theme; a beautiful natural resource of historical significance for indigenous people is discovered by colonists, who raid its treasures until they are very nearly depleted. Thankfully the world also has souls like Galen Clark, John Muir, and later Charles Young, of the Buffalo Soldiers that Bob Marley brought to fame. These amateur naturalists and conservation warriors wrote passionately about the other values of natural wonder; a place to rest and reflect, to be awed and inspired … and to leave the plants and animals the hell alone!

Galen Clark. 1st Superintendent of Yosemite National Park

Luckily for the US, these quiet voices were heard above the blasts of dynamite and the fall of axes, and treasures like Yosemite were in time protected and allowed to slowly return to their former grandeur. Uzumati means “grizzly bear” which indicates that this park has some way to go to fully be restored, as only black bears roam these valleys and mountains, but what a place to roam!

Towering walls of granite thrust straight up from the rich meadows below, dwarfing all and creating a weird distortion of perspective. The polished round domes, sculpted by glaciers long lost, can one minute look tiny, and the next loom large and imposing as you round a new corner of a trail. “Beauty beyond thought everywhere, beneath, above, made and being made forever” wrote Muir as he walked these cathedrals of stone, and it is easy to lose yourself in these thoughts as you explore Yosemite today.

Mirror Lake

In the valley, head straight to Half Dome at first light, taking the lower valley floor trail. You will get several hours of quiet contemplation before you encounter the selfie crowds at the main hotspots. A swim in the cool rivers under the tumbling waterfalls will revive you as the heat of the day builds up. In all, it’s a 13 mile hike around the valley floor, but you can take the Sardine Express (free shuttles) to jump from point to point if you have little legs in tow like we do.

Luken Lake, High Sierras

Although the big hitters like El Capitan, Half Dome and Bridelveil are impressive, make time to head up to the high Sierras as well. Here you will find a rich diversity of landscapes and habitats, along with spectacular views down into the valley itself. Soak up the views, keep yourselfies out of the photos (you really are spoiling the view!) and leave nothing behind but the sound of your footsteps. It’s the finest tribute you can leave to this special space.

El Capitan

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