Okay internet, for anyone thinking we are incredibly well organised people…think again! While cruising along the Interstate 80 through Chicago, we accidentally went through an “I-Pass” toll booth instead of paying cash. No problem, we can just go online and pay our toll. Question #1 = What is your rear facing licence plate?

(Imagine sounds of crickets chirping & brain cells cogitating)

In all of our planning, we had neglected to get plates on our camper. Enter US bureaucracy stage left, in full regalia. To make a long story short, after many exasperating phone calls to look for alternatives; “Can we get Indiana plates instead?” No, because you don’t live here. “Well technically we don’t live anywhere and we’ve been in Chicago for 3 days so I’d say that we’re Indiana residents”. Can you provide proof of address? “Would a note from my cousin suffice?” No.

Ironically the only place that we could prove residence is somewhere that we no longer reside, so we were left with the only available option of driving all the way back to Ohio to get license plates for Happy (our camper).

Thanks to Jackie & Bill Totsch, we were able to leave the kids behind and two unhappy campers headed off at 4:30AM to complete the deed. The transaction took all of 3 minutes, and cost $28 – if you ignore the 8 extra hours of driving, petrol & tolls that is!

Oh well, lesson learned and we are able to continue on our way (almost) to plan.

Sometimes the stars just line up, and we were privileged to witness the return of the Fred A. Busse river fireboat to its new home in DuSable Harbor, to start a new life as a river cruise vessel. What started as a dream for Navy boys Erich Totsch (a 3rd cousin of Michelle’s) and Ray Novak, turned to reality on Tuesday as they piloted Fred to a new downtown home right on center stage of the city.

Operating as Chicago Fireboat Tours, they will be showing off this stunning city to all comers from this summer, giving a classic Chicago experience. The sight of this magnificent fire-engine red 90-footer sliding into the harbor, with the skyline as a backdrop, is a truly memorable moment. As a welcoming gesture, the city lit up with a spectacular lightning show that rivalled any Fourth of July fireworks.

Fred A. Busse was a working fireboat from the 1930’s until 1982, and until recently has been operating from Wisconsin. Chicago is definitively home for this craft, and the smiles said it all as Ray and Erich guided Fred into position beside the Columbia Yacht Club. Be sure to look them up and check them out next time you are in town.

We start our journey with a visit to the Windy City. Much like our hometown of Christchurch NZ, Chicago is famous for being a city reborn from adversity, being almost completely rebuilt following the devastating fire in 1871. An adventurous architectural history is on display along the rivers and vast lake frontage, which is used to maximum effect with more than 18 miles of continuous multi-use trails that weave through the lakeshore parks.

Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower)

For Frank Lloyd Wright fans, Chicago is the veritable living museum of his groundbreaking domestic architecture. Distinctive in style, you see echoes of his forms in house designs here today. His obsession with creating idyllic home life experiences was often in conflict with practical needs of daily living, and stands in contrast with the domestic turmoil that eventuated in his own household.

Francis J Woolley House (not Frank’s favourite, but one of mine)

We are fortunate to be very well hosted by the extended Martin, Totsch and Johnsen families, recently discovered relatives of Michelle. Under their expert tutelage we are informed of the importance of not putting Ketchup on your hotdogs, and encouraged to load every other condiment known to man onto the excellent hotdogs at Superdawgs. Even the highway information boards warn of this violation: No speeding, No texting, No Ketchup (no kidding!). The only exception to the amazing hospitality is Caramela, quite possibly the worlds’ grumpiest cat, whose incessant growling and swiping is simultaneously entertaining and alarming!

Carmela in a festive mood

Millennium Park and Navy Pier are the centerpiece for the city, and bustle with summer time sightseers enjoying the 90 degree heat. No trip to Chicago would be complete without visiting the Bean to watch the world warp and distort into a myriad of mirrored images, and to drench yourself under the water towers of Millennium Park.

All around, a fantastic day in the city, and merely an appetizer for what was to come in the evening…

#1. Don’t think you already know America. Be wary that the bleached and bloated views you may have already formed have passed through the highly filtered media machines. 330 million people will generate a lot of stories, and the more extreme ones are what make it through. Put America on a bell distribution curve and you will find an incredible diversity of opinion and thought, with a large number of caring and thoughtful people in the middle. This is the hidden America; the ones stuck in between the vocal extremes to the left and right. There are some great people here – go find them!

Want to see lots of slow motion shots of trust fund babes running through the latest trophy tourism spot? Well, you’ll have to get your Instagratification elsewhere!!

Julian is a 45 year old designer and developer of health and rehab products who loves biking, music, and turning our lives upside down every now and then . Michelle is a biology scientist and teacher with a passion for the environment and inspiring young adults to brighter futures. Josh (11) and Scott (7) share mutual interests in soccer, Taekwando, gaming and having adventures on the road…along with the usual sibling rivalry of brothers.

Perhaps we are not typical, having already moved from New Zealand to the USA for a 3 year long working adventure, but we consider ourselves pretty damn normal. We like to scare ourselves out of our comfort zones by taking on new challenges and experiences, but always with a healthy sense of fear and trepidation.

We want to taste a different life, and are leaving the certainty of jobs, domestication, neighborhoods, friends & family to live live on the road in an 18 foot camper (caravan). Along the way we will be exploring many of America’s finest national parks, learn about its deep and confronting histories, and to meet the many peoples that combine to make America the colorful and noisy construct that it is.

Join us on our haphazard journey of discovery. We hope you’ll be inspired to take your own flight of fancy one day!